By Micheal | 04 January 2022 | 0 Comments
How to DIY an electric skateboard?
DIY 4WD wireless remote control electric skateboard.
Theoretical top speed: 50.9km/h
Endurance: 30+km
Cost: about $1000 US
Configuration:
Motor: N5065 320KV *4
Battery: polymer battery 25c 8S 10Ah (buy batteries from the assembly, remember to add battery protection board)
ESC: FLIER 8S 100A one with two ESC*2 (with soft brake and reverse function)
Remote control module: Ebay, hobbyskyboard.com,
Other functions: smooth curve acceleration, soft brake, LED, horn, reversing, battery overdischarge and overcharge protection, power display, etc.
Decks：
Regarding the choice of Decks, I recommend using a long board. Although the longboard is bigger and heavier, it runs at high speed and is much more stable than other double rockers and small fishboards.
Made of bamboo + fiber material, excellent elasticity provides good shock-absorbing ability, and has a very good operating comfort. The disadvantage is that it is prone to shaking at a speed exceeding 40km/h, and players with inexperienced operation are easy to hang up. That's right! Not wrestling! It's hanging up!
Wheel：
In fact, ordinary wheels are fine, but one of the original purposes of my skateboarding was to test the maximum speed, so I chose a better configuration. Theoretically speaking, the wider the wheels, the better the stability, and the high-speed needs sufficient stability. 80mm 80A
The wheel diameter of 80mm is big enough but not too big, and it can pass through some slightly higher thresholds, and it is both portable and passable. The width of 56mm greatly improves the stability. Hardness 80A Moderate hardness, too hard and shocking foot hemp, too soft will affect the endurance, and the natural sliding distance will be very short.
Truck：
Similarly, if you want to test the maximum speed, the choice of bridge is particularly important. This thing is the most important accessory that determines the stability of the general long board
Bushing is the soft rubber between the Truck frame and the Truck base, referred to as PU. This kind of Truck is actually not suitable for electric skateboards. This kind of Truck is tapered PU. Although the steering is flexible, the high speed is not as stable as the double-pillar PU Truck .
The picture above is a schematic diagram of the long-slab Truck PU. This should be easier to understand. The double-post type PU has a worse steering, but has better stability.
Bearing ：
If the budget is sufficient, you can choose better ceramic bearings
Okay, now there is a complete skateboard
There is still a lack of electric parts, so now to assemble an electric skateboard, I will divide the electric skateboard part into these parts: transmission and driving part, battery pack, remote control and receiver part, and others (LED lights, speakers,etc.)
Mechanical transmission part: brushless motor + ESC + motor bracket + large and small synchronous wheel + belt
Now the most widely used brushless motor model for DIY electric skateboards is N5065 (like hobbysky 5065). (There are different versions)
The KV value is the speed that the motor can provide in a unit voltage. It is recommended to choose the 320KV or 270KV version of the N5065. These two kv motors are more suitable for making dual-drive and single-drive. This is an empirical conclusion, because the speed of this KV value after the 8S battery is decelerated by the belt is 30-50km/h, this speed is the most reasonable. If it is too fast, most people can't control it. Although my four-wheel drive also uses this KV motor, I regret it a bit. The motor's torque is too large and the acceleration and braking are very stiff, and it is easy to stand unstable, which is very dangerous! ! Although the acceleration and braking force can be changed by setting the ESC parameters, this can only ease the acceleration and not solve the problem of stiff acceleration. This issue will be discussed later.
Popular science①: The motor is divided into an external motor and a hub motor. The external motor is what we do now. It is driven by an external brushless motor with a belt and a synchronous wheel. The hub motor refers to the integration of the motor on the skateboard wheel. Inside, in order to achieve the effect of reducing parts in appearance, it can improve the aesthetics, which must be the future trend.
Popular science ②: The transmission mode is divided into toothed and non-toothed. The "tooth" here refers to the gear, which means that the gear box is small and integrated into the motor. An example is the Stary electric skateboard. The advantage is that the small gear drives the large gear to increase the torque. The disadvantage is that the noise is very loud and the life is not as good as the direct drive without gears. The life is to be verified.
Popular science ③: In order to cooperate with the controller to achieve better control, the motor is divided into inductive and non-inductive. The sense here refers to the "Hall sensor", which senses the position of the motor and informs the controller.
Next is the motor bracket：
Then there are synchronous wheels and belts. It is recommended to choose a 1:3 synchronous wheel with a 320kv motor. The belt width of 15mm is not very suitable. Here I choose a 10mm belt for my four-wheel drive. Because the four-wheel drive has four belt drives, the pressure on each belt is lower, so 10mm is enough.
In this way, the transmission part is complete.
Circuit part: battery pack + ESC + receiver + power display
My own skateboard profile looks like the picture below
After gathering the above accessories, you can start to assemble
Important note:
If you are a novice，Please protect！！！ Otherwise you might be worse than me！！Like the photo!
www.hobbyskyboard.com
Theoretical top speed: 50.9km/h
Endurance: 30+km
Cost: about $1000 US
Configuration:
Motor: N5065 320KV *4
Battery: polymer battery 25c 8S 10Ah (buy batteries from the assembly, remember to add battery protection board)
ESC: FLIER 8S 100A one with two ESC*2 (with soft brake and reverse function)
Remote control module: Ebay, hobbyskyboard.com,
Other functions: smooth curve acceleration, soft brake, LED, horn, reversing, battery overdischarge and overcharge protection, power display, etc.
Decks：
Regarding the choice of Decks, I recommend using a long board. Although the longboard is bigger and heavier, it runs at high speed and is much more stable than other double rockers and small fishboards.
Made of bamboo + fiber material, excellent elasticity provides good shock-absorbing ability, and has a very good operating comfort. The disadvantage is that it is prone to shaking at a speed exceeding 40km/h, and players with inexperienced operation are easy to hang up. That's right! Not wrestling! It's hanging up!
Wheel：
In fact, ordinary wheels are fine, but one of the original purposes of my skateboarding was to test the maximum speed, so I chose a better configuration. Theoretically speaking, the wider the wheels, the better the stability, and the high-speed needs sufficient stability. 80mm 80A
The wheel diameter of 80mm is big enough but not too big, and it can pass through some slightly higher thresholds, and it is both portable and passable. The width of 56mm greatly improves the stability. Hardness 80A Moderate hardness, too hard and shocking foot hemp, too soft will affect the endurance, and the natural sliding distance will be very short.
Truck：
Similarly, if you want to test the maximum speed, the choice of bridge is particularly important. This thing is the most important accessory that determines the stability of the general long board
Bushing is the soft rubber between the Truck frame and the Truck base, referred to as PU. This kind of Truck is actually not suitable for electric skateboards. This kind of Truck is tapered PU. Although the steering is flexible, the high speed is not as stable as the double-pillar PU Truck .
The picture above is a schematic diagram of the long-slab Truck PU. This should be easier to understand. The double-post type PU has a worse steering, but has better stability.
Bearing ：
If the budget is sufficient, you can choose better ceramic bearings
Okay, now there is a complete skateboard
There is still a lack of electric parts, so now to assemble an electric skateboard, I will divide the electric skateboard part into these parts: transmission and driving part, battery pack, remote control and receiver part, and others (LED lights, speakers,etc.)
Mechanical transmission part: brushless motor + ESC + motor bracket + large and small synchronous wheel + belt
Now the most widely used brushless motor model for DIY electric skateboards is N5065 (like hobbysky 5065). (There are different versions)
The KV value is the speed that the motor can provide in a unit voltage. It is recommended to choose the 320KV or 270KV version of the N5065. These two kv motors are more suitable for making dual-drive and single-drive. This is an empirical conclusion, because the speed of this KV value after the 8S battery is decelerated by the belt is 30-50km/h, this speed is the most reasonable. If it is too fast, most people can't control it. Although my four-wheel drive also uses this KV motor, I regret it a bit. The motor's torque is too large and the acceleration and braking are very stiff, and it is easy to stand unstable, which is very dangerous! ! Although the acceleration and braking force can be changed by setting the ESC parameters, this can only ease the acceleration and not solve the problem of stiff acceleration. This issue will be discussed later.
Popular science①: The motor is divided into an external motor and a hub motor. The external motor is what we do now. It is driven by an external brushless motor with a belt and a synchronous wheel. The hub motor refers to the integration of the motor on the skateboard wheel. Inside, in order to achieve the effect of reducing parts in appearance, it can improve the aesthetics, which must be the future trend.
Popular science ②: The transmission mode is divided into toothed and non-toothed. The "tooth" here refers to the gear, which means that the gear box is small and integrated into the motor. An example is the Stary electric skateboard. The advantage is that the small gear drives the large gear to increase the torque. The disadvantage is that the noise is very loud and the life is not as good as the direct drive without gears. The life is to be verified.
Popular science ③: In order to cooperate with the controller to achieve better control, the motor is divided into inductive and non-inductive. The sense here refers to the "Hall sensor", which senses the position of the motor and informs the controller.
Next is the motor bracket：
Then there are synchronous wheels and belts. It is recommended to choose a 1:3 synchronous wheel with a 320kv motor. The belt width of 15mm is not very suitable. Here I choose a 10mm belt for my four-wheel drive. Because the four-wheel drive has four belt drives, the pressure on each belt is lower, so 10mm is enough.
In this way, the transmission part is complete.
Circuit part: battery pack + ESC + receiver + power display
My own skateboard profile looks like the picture below
After gathering the above accessories, you can start to assemble
Important note:
If you are a novice，Please protect！！！ Otherwise you might be worse than me！！Like the photo!
www.hobbyskyboard.com
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